13/06/2024
I look at Chef Devagi Sanmugam and think, “this is what I want to do full time”. Cook for people, run a successful restaurant, create your own product line, host dinners, curate menus and write on food, and travel to learn about food. Phew!
I see her and I see so much joy! There is an eagerness to learn. To share her knowledge. And importantly, there is a modesty. And that tops it all for me. I spent my birthday week with her this year, and during the conversation, I came to learn about the important women in her life: her aatha (grandmother), amma (mother) and periyamma (aunt). These three women have shaped who she is and what food means to her. Her memories are strong, and very definitive – so much so that she is able to describe the sounds, sights and fragrances from her grandmother’s kitchen, so well! I’ve covered only a few elements in this piece, and possibly will do another later this year. Till then, before the monsoon starts, I’ll try to make her Malaysian Style Mixed Vegetable Aachar.
Lessons from Aatha - Southern Living
As she opens the door to her kitchen, Chef Devagi smiles and you can hear her whisper, “good morning”, “hello” and on some days, it’s a smile and nod. She greets her kitchen and her kitchen appliances each morning, and thanks them at the end of the day. “I have been doing this since I